Mind Surfing

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I know from my own years spent in the ocean that a day of surfing produces what can only be described — when all other descriptions fail — as a sense of deep satisfaction, and even joy.

Over the years, some surfers have attempted to describe these feelings. Because such feelings are often so overwhelmingly emotional, however, these descriptions are frequently couched in religious or quasi-religious terms. He believed that surfing was a high calling, one that could teach humans about spirituality and nature, and what he believed to be the connection between the two. But is it valid? Do all these surfer anecdotes — and the experiences of many non-surfers — actually amount to anything scientifically concrete?

Urge Surfing: Ease the Mind by Riding the Wave | Severance Magazine

To anything that can be measured and analyzed? Does the mere presence of the ocean actually have a significant and therapeutic effect on brain neurochemistry? The honest answer at this point is: Who know? What is perhaps most intriguing to me is the larger question all this speculation brings up, namely, the role of nature in human life.

Do human minds stand outside the natural order, or are they an integral part of it? Do these things and you will be wise and happy.

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Yet I am frequently unable to put these feelings into words. Even when I later found a sheltered and sandy cove, with aforementioned uncrowded waters, and dolphins, I was still struggling on the wrong board and wondering what it was all about. I found myself missing waves whilst daydreaming about snowboarding like an unfaithful lover.

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Surfing, in particular, is a sport that can suffer from the excess of our fantasies. The shining images in magazines, mind-blowing footage of competitive surfers and our own fallible memories can be a sharp contrast to the variable conditions we have to face and the brutal reminders of our own limitations out there.

It was with effort that I made the drive to the coast again on Tuesday knowing that a cross-shore wind had picked up and rain was forecast. But in that dirty brown and empty sea of blown out waves, I found what I was looking for — a meditation, peace, perspective, a grueling physical battering and just enough long, sweet rides to lure my heart back to where it belongs.

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